For Greeks, Better Than Christmas

In Greece, Easter is the most fabulous time of the year. For families, it’s the must-time to eat, drink, and be merry together. In my four years in Greece, I learned to celebrate Easter like a Greek. Just in terms of fun, it’s key to celebrate in the embrace of a real Greek family, when the traditional roasting of a lamb outside becomes a daylong center of the action. In the countryside and on the islands, it begins maybe the day before with someone digging a pit. In Athens, it happens on the rooftops, where a rigged-up roasting is engineered. Easter morning the lamb roast begins over a real fire. The men—what always seems to be a succession of the uncles—hunker down to oversee the continual turning of the lamb, basting it all day with aromatic and alcoholic marinades. It’s always hot on this radiant Greek Sunday, and soon the sweating uncles discard their shirts. Music comes from somewhere and everywhere, and everyone else sings an...